What is a Vape Tank?
Your tank is the part of your kit that you fill with liquid and put the coil into. Pod style and ones with a 510 connection are the two main types available. Pods usually magnetise directly into the device, or into a 510 adapter. 510 connection tanks screw into the battery.
There are a number of parts that make up a tank, so let’s go through them:
- Drip Tip – Also known as a mouthpiece, this is where you inhale the vapour from. They usually are built in, however some can be removed and swapped out.
- Top Cap – This is only a feature if there is a top filling system. It is either attached with a sliding mechanism or is screw off. Basically, it’s how you get your liquid into the tank.
- Tank/Pod – This is the main body, and is either a pod or a glass/acrylic cylinder. It’s what keeps the liquid inside.
How Does a Vape Tank Work?
A tank works by storing and heating the e-liquid used for vaping. When fitted with a coil and topped up with e-liquid, it can be attached to a battery mod to power. The coil can then be activated at a click of a button.
What is the Difference Between Sub-ohm and MTL?
Sub-ohm and Mouth-to-lung refer to the resistance of the coil that is in your tank. MTL coils are more restrictive, and they’re closer to the draw of a cigarette. These coils are 1.0ohm or higher. Sub-ohm coils produce more vapour and are used by direct-to-lung or restricted direct-to-lung vapers. RDL coils are usually around 0.6ohm or 0.8ohm, whereas DL coils are normally 0.15ohm to 0.4ohm, but all of them fall in to the sub-ohm category.
Examples of MTL tanks include: the GTL pod tank, the GS Air tank or the iJust D20 Pod.
Examples of sub-ohm tanks include: the ELLO tank, the MELO 5 tank or the GX tank.
RDA & RTA.
RDA stands for rebuildable dripping atomizer. These are tanks that don’t actually hold any liquid, instead the liquid is dripped directly onto the cotton. Also, RDAs contain coils that are made by the user and require you to know how to build a coil.
RTA stands for rebuildable tank atomizer. RTAs are basically RDAs but with a tank over the user-built coil. This allows coil makers the benefits of having an RDA but without the need to drip the liquid every few draws.
Since we aim to provide vapers with the easiest ways to vape, we don’t currently stock RTAs or RDAs. But, there are plenty of other options available that offer a similar experience, without the required knowledge to build your own.
Vape Tank FAQs.
Why Is My Tank Leaking?
There are several reasons why a tank could be leaking, so let’s go through them one by one.
- The coil is burnt or faulty – when the coil isn’t working properly, it can’t absorb the liquid like it should. This causes leaking, usually out of the airflow holes or bottom of the coil.
- The tank is cracked – The problem with tanks that have a glass or acrylic sleeve is that they can break when hit hard enough. If your leak doesn’t seem to be coming from the airflow holes, check that the glass isn’t cracked.
- You’re using a coil that’s too resistant – If you draw too hard on your coil it can pull too much liquid into it. This causes leaking out of the airflow holes or bottom of the coil, just like a burnt one. The simplest fix for this is to buy a less resistant coil.
What Else Could Cause Issues with My Tank?
One reason a tank may not work is if it’s not coming into contact with the battery. If you have a screen on your device, it will display a message such as ‘No Atomizer’ or something similar. If your e-cig doesn’t have a screen then the battery indicator light will flash. It usually means that the coil is burnt or faulty, but there can be other issues. Firstly, try to change your coil and if the problem is still there then you can contact our knowledgeable customer service team for more help.
Still need help to find what's best for you? Speak to one of our friendly Customer Service Advisors on 01254 269381 between 9am and 5pm, Monday to Friday.